Adopting a

Puppy Mill Survivor

Things you should consider....

Adopting a puppy mill rescue is not for everyone. These dogs have not had a normal existence, and their contact with humans, if at all, could have been very unpleasant. In a nurturing environment, however, they have the potential to become the awesome companions they were meant to be. This does not happen overnight and can take many months. It requires patience and lots of love.

Most puppy mill rescues have lived their entire lives confined in a small cage with other dogs.

As a result......

•Terror of Human Hands: The only time most puppy mill dogs are removed from their cages it is a painful experience for them. The dog may be grabbed by any easily reached body part. This takes lots of patience and non-threatening touches to overcome. You may have to lie on the floor face down with your eyes averted to get the dog to approach you at all. Let him come near you and sniff. It may take an hour, or days for this to happen. You can sometimes begin by holding the dog, petting him gently for a few seconds, speaking softly, then place him carefully down. Let him know you do not wish to restrain him. Lengthen the time for this ritual each day. Never raise your voice, clap your hands, or allow loud noises in the home during this adjustment period. You must strive to create a totally non-threatening environment. Behave as submissively as possible. Build trust slowly.
•Life in a Household: These puppy mill babies don't know how to act in a household. They are not familiar with its ordinary sounds. They do not know how to climb up or down stairs and do not understand the concept of height (they do not know how to jump and will simply walk off high surfaces and fall flat on their chins). These are things that they must learn in their new lives. Ideally, a puppy mill rescue does better if there is another dog in the household from whom they can learn how to function in a home situation.

Every puppy mill survivor is different. What works on one will completely fail on another. The only thing that is consistent is that these dogs will need lots of patience, understanding and love. And probably most importantly, acceptance: unconditional acceptance of what they are capable of giving and receiving.

We would love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to become a wonderful family pet, but that wouldn't be true. Love is definitely needed in large quantities, but so is patience. Any damage done during the months or years in a puppy mill can usually be overcome, but it takes time, patience, and dedication.

It takes a very special adopter to accept and love a puppy mill survivor. Rehabilitation of the puppy mill survivor begins with rescue, but can only be completed by a committed, loving family. The purpose of this article is to help demystify some of the acquired behaviors of the puppy mill dog, and to let the adopter know what to expect.

• Best adopted in Pairs: Puppy mill rescues are more comfortable in the company of other dogs and are quite fearful of humans. For them to feel most secure in their new homes, ideally they are best adopted in pairs or there should be another dog in the family from whom they can learn. Many of our puppy mill rescues arrive in bonded pairs.

• Aversion to Eye Contact: They are initially fearful of eye contact or stares, which can be considered to be agressive behavior to them. When looking at them make sure you blink. Resist the urge to look into their eyes or hold your face close to theirs. Talking to your dog in a soft, calm voice helps speed the process. A dog may not speak English, but the gentle tone of your voice and the fact that he is the focus of your concern will be understood.

•Holding the Dogs: Initially, puppy mill rescues are quite fearful of being picked up. In their former life, nothing pleasant happened when a human picked them up. To feel secure they need to be firmly held while gently rubbing their backs. Until they know and are secure with you, do not pet their heads or necks. It will cause many of them to flinch as it is reminiscent of being grabbed up in their former lives. If you are not in a secure area (house), please keep the leash securely fastened around your wrist.

•Marking/Housetraining: No puppy mill survivor comes housetrained. Some may never grasp the finer points. Most males will mark, and many females too. Crates are useful in housetraining. Belly bands (a cloth band which wraps around male dogs covering the ureter) will help prevent marking. Nicely fitted doggie diapers are available from Foster and Smith and Petsmart. Put your dog on a schedule. Take him outside first thing in the morning, at lunchtime whenever possible, after dinner, before bedtime. If you see him lift his leg in the house, a shaker can (jar filled with small pebbles) or clicker can distract him long enough for you to get him outside. Never raise your voice. Never hit a dog. Take him outside and reinforce by saying, "Potty outside", or something similar. Use positive reinforcement when the dog does his business outside..."Good boy! Potty outside! Good, good boy!" Lots of petting must follow!
•The Need for a Secure Enviroment: These dogs spook easily and can be frightened by sudden moves, loud noises, and sometimes even the touch of a hand. They tend to run or bolt if given an opportunity to do so and can be very hard to catch! It is extremely important to have a securely fenced yard and for everyone to remember to close doors to the outside. If they get loose, it most often will result in their death.

•Collars/Harnesses/Leash Training: Puppy mill rescues have the uncanny ability,if frightened, to buck and squeeze out of normal collars and bolt. If the puppy mill rescue gets away from you, he will starve before approaching another human for food or shelter. Note that very few that have escaped have ever been caught and have met their demise. Prevention is by far the best policy. Consequently, collars would need to be very tight. With Shih Tzu, a well-fitting harness can solve this problem. Leash training should be gradual and requires patience. It is best if you follow with a long, loose(or retractable) leash. Leash training can take up to 6 months. Never let go of the leash, keep it securely fastened around your wrist.

•Do not Chase Them! When you first adopt your puppy mill rescue he may be very fearful of your approach. Do NOT chase him or you may undo any trust he has in you. Until he knows you, and is not fearful of your approach, it is best to leave a leash on him at all times when not confined in a crate. That way he is easily caught by stepping on the leash as he goes by, without chasing. Do NOT drag him to you but simply use the leash to keep him taut while you approach him.

•Emotional Issues: In their earlier existence in the puppy mill, humans were not to be trusted, rather they were to be feared. It will take time for your puppy mill rescue to feel secure with you. Do not be lulled into a false sense of security because your puppy mill rescue no longer trembles when you pick him up. Just because you love him does not mean he understands it. Every precaution should be taken to ensure that he is always in a secured environment. Many puppy mill survivors are frightened of water hoses. Puppymillers generally don't bother removing the dogs before hosing down their cages. I have known adopters whose puppy mill survivors have become well-acclimated to homes, families and leashed walks only to have the dog bolt when they chanced by a neighbor watering his lawn.They may attach themselves to one person in the home and become their protector. They are often fearful of men.

•The "I'm Afraid of My Food" Routine: Anytime the cage door is opened on a mill dog, fear is the response. Of course the cage door must be opened to insert a bowl of food, which may have also been used to entice the dog forward only to be yanked out. A puppy mill survivor may run in the opposite direction when you sit dinner on the floor. Turn your back and walk away. Let him eat undisturbed.

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